Installing Engine Internals

I finally decided it was time to start putting stuff in the casing. w00t!

Giving the e50 one more bath before I put it to work. 

Next, I'm going to seal it up today and start the installation of the top end. 

Adding Area For Gasket

We didn't trust that there was enough area available for the gasket to make a good seal where the engine and the cylinder meet. So Bill thought it would be a good idea to add some area to the engine with some J-B Weld. So what the hell it couldn't hurt right.  Here we go.

Bill prepping the weld

We taped off all of the areas we didn't want the weld to get on
and put a piece of tape between the two case halves to prevent
the case from sticking together.

Cutting off the excess with a razor blade

Some soft filing to make flush. 

After we finished the next day I was organizing my work area and realized a piece of the weld came off :(

I think it was due to the very old JB "kwik" weld we used. 

I had to rip the top off to get it open :)

So the next day I went back to Auto Zone and picked up the J-B Weld Stik and redid the side that fell off. 

It worked great, no need to tape anything off. 

Side finished with the stick

Port Matching (Fix)

After visiting the Moped Army, I was told my best bet would be to J-B Weld the hole I created. So I went out and bought some "slow" curring J-B Weld and gave it a shot. 

I used heat shrink to fill in the screw hole trying to prevent the weld from
seeping into the hole. It ended up working really well.

After it dried over night, we scored the weld down the middle and it cracked it open with out a fuss.

Other side

Afterwards i did some more sanding and called it a day.
I hope it holds.

Port Matching e50

I want to start out by saying I know it's not perfect but once i went too deep on one side I didn't want to push my luck, I figured this is better than nothing.
This is for a "Cheapo 70cc Cylinder Kit" from www.1977mopeds.com

Install the gasket to mark the area that needs removed.

My markings with the gasket and studs removed

Some of the tools I used. 

The Bad Side
This is where it all went wrong. I guess the gasket outline
method isn't always the best. It looked like i had plenty of
room but I guess I was wrong. I stopped as soon as this
happened. Then I made a visit to the Moped Army to see
what my options were.

The First Side
It went pretty well I did smooth it out a bit more
afterthis picturewas taken.  I used a file and
sand paper for that. 

Main Gear Bearings

All went as planned, took off the old bearings with my puller and pressed the new ones on. 

Pulling off old bearings

Image of bare shaft

Installed snap ring

Image of both bearings installed, I used a press for the one on the right and
 a rubber malled  for the one of the left.

Painted sprockets and brake assembly

I painted my rear wheel sprocket, brake assembly and my engine gear sprocket. 

I'm going to reassemble the rear wheel tomorrow after the paint has had time to completely dry

I'm sure it's not going to last long but it's worth a shot.

Installed Wheel Bearings

These went in pretty easily a lot faster then getting the old ones out. I laid the bearings flush and gave it a whack with a rubber malled.  

Bearing 1

Bearing 2
Side note: I noticed I didn't have the bearing in far enough after
I took this picture. Make sure your bearing is pressed in far enough.


Don't forget the spacer between the bearings 

Rear Wheel Bearings

WARNING! 

DO NOT SANDBLAST & POWDER COAT YOUR WHEEL WITH THE BEARINGS  INSTALLED

Now that I got that warning out of the way. let me show you some pictures of what happens when you don't listen to my warning. 

I spent a good couple hours trying to bang out these bearings and  I had to finally call in a friend (Thanks Bill) to help me hit it a bit harder. 

This is the bearing still stuck in the wheel. 

If you look closely you can see my stuck punch    

This is what my bearing looked like after I got it out

Here are the two little bastards 

that gave me so much crap

A picture of Bill trying to figure out why they put  plastic/rubber  pieces  on the end of the  bearing spacer. 

Here is the piece i was referring to,  I kinda chipped the right side of  the spacer. I'm not sure if the other side had the rubber plastic caps. I'm going to figure that out today. 

The wheel is ready to be cleaned 

and prepped for the new bearings.

Oh yea, this is a picture of my punch that was stuck in the bearing. I now know why I couldn't pull out the punch. I'm pretty sure it was straight when I put it in there. 

Reassembling Front Wheel

Well I got the front wheel reassembled, I think i need to do some fine tuning on the bearing pressure.

I had to go to Auto Zone and buy a cheap wrench to grind down to make my
own tool to tighten the set nut on the wheel.  This is a much cheaper alternative to
buying a special wrench.

Cleaned my front wheel bearings and races

Well I finally got back to the front wheel. I cleaned out the bearing races with a q-tip and some carburetor and below is a picture of my bearings soaking is some carburetor cleaner in my blaster cap (one more use for blaster http://www.pbblaster.com/).  

Bearings Soaking In Carburetor Cleaner

Before

After

Before

After

Before

After

Removing Front Wheel Bearings

Last night I removed the brake assembly and the bearings, it was a bit tough. I'm going to clean them today and go pick up some new grease to pack them with. Thanx to my wife i didn't loose any bearings.

It looks like i might need a special tool to get the rear wheel bearings out. I'll do some research today and hopefully get those out tonight.

Failed attempt at installing new bearings

Well i'm using the freeze and heat method.
Here is my crank getting nice and cold

Here are my bearings cooking.
I don't think I got them hot enough
I had them in the oven for 10 mins at 200 including preheating. so really they were only in there for around 8 mins at 200 degrees

This is as far as i got :(
not really a success

So i went out and bought a bearing puller and a clutch puller while i was out.
I found out from the moped army that there is a way to press the bearings on with the puller so that is what i'm going to try next time. I think i'm going to take a break from these bearings and try my hand at the wheel bearings :).

Parts Ordered

Thanx to

Description	Quantity	Price
Puch E50 Green Seal Kit	1	$9.99
Puch Crankshaft Bearing Set	1	$16.99
Puch E50 Gasket Kit	1	$10.99

Puch Race Alu Stuffed Crank	1	$106.00
Puch Cheapo 70cc Kit	1	$77.00

I also picked up some new engine bolts from Fastenal